The yarn numbering system is used to describe the thickness or fineness of yarns in textile production. Different numbering systems are used in various countries and industries, and they help manufacturers determine how much material is needed for production or how a particular yarn will behave in a fabric. Below are some of the most common systems and some textile conversions for yarn and fabric measurement.
1. Yarn Numbering Systems:
There are two main systems for measuring yarn thickness: direct and indirect.
Indirect Systems (Weight-Based)
In indirect systems, the yarn number is based on the weight of a fixed length of yarn. The higher the number, the finer the yarn.
- Cotton Count (Ne)
- Definition: This is the number of 840-yard lengths of yarn in one pound (lb) of yarn. It’s mostly used for cotton yarn.
- Formula: Ne=Length of Yarn in YardsWeight in Pounds×840text{Ne} = frac{text{Length of Yarn in Yards}}{text{Weight in Pounds}} times 840Ne=Weight in PoundsLength of Yarn in Yards×840
- Example: If a yarn weighs 1 lb and is 1680 yards long, its count would be 2 Ne (840 yards × 2 = 1680 yards).
- Woolen Count (W)
- Definition: Similar to the cotton count, but this is used for wool yarn. The unit is the number of yards of yarn per pound.
- Denier (D)
- Definition: A measure used for synthetic fibers, indicating the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn. The higher the denier, the thicker the yarn.
- Formula: Denier=Weight in Grams×9,000Length in Meterstext{Denier} = frac{text{Weight in Grams} times 9,000}{text{Length in Meters}}Denier=Length in MetersWeight in Grams×9,000
- Example: A 10 denier yarn weighs 10 grams per 9,000 meters of yarn.
- Tex (T)
- Definition: The number of grams per 1,000 meters of yarn. Like denier, but used for both synthetic and natural fibers.
- Formula: Tex=Weight in Grams×1,000Length in Meterstext{Tex} = frac{text{Weight in Grams} times 1,000}{text{Length in Meters}}Tex=Length in MetersWeight in Grams×1,000
- Example: If a yarn weighs 100 grams and is 1,000 meters long, the tex would be 100 T.
Direct Systems (Length-Based)
In direct systems, the yarn number refers to the length of yarn in a fixed weight (typically 1 gram). The higher the number, the thicker the yarn.
- Count (Nm or Ne)
- Definition: The number of meters of yarn in 1 gram of yarn. Commonly used for fine or lightweight yarns.
- Formula: Nm=Length of Yarn in MetersWeight in Gramstext{Nm} = frac{text{Length of Yarn in Meters}}{text{Weight in Grams}}Nm=Weight in GramsLength of Yarn in Meters
- Example: If a yarn is 100 meters long and weighs 1 gram, it has a count of 100 Nm.
2. Common Conversions between Systems:
| System | Conversion Formula | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton Count (Ne) | 1 Ne = 1,200 meters / 1 kilogram | 20 Ne = 24,000 meters per kg |
| Denier | Denier = Tex × 9 | 300 Denier = 33.33 Tex |
| Tex | 1 Tex = 9 Denier / 1000 | 500 Tex = 4,500 Denier |
| Nm (metric count) | 1 Nm = 1,000 meters / 1 gram | 50 Nm = 50 meters per gram |
3. Fabric Weight and GSM (Grams per Square Meter)
- Grams per Square Meter (GSM) is a common measurement for fabric weight. It helps to indicate the density and thickness of a fabric.
- Conversion from Weight to GSM:
- For woven fabrics:GSM=Weight (grams per linear meter)×10,000Width (in centimeters)×Length (in meters)text{GSM} = frac{text{Weight (grams per linear meter)} times 10,000}{text{Width (in centimeters)} times text{Length (in meters)}}GSM=Width (in centimeters)×Length (in meters)Weight (grams per linear meter)×10,000
- For knitted fabrics: GSM can be calculated based on fabric weight per area, using similar formulas to woven fabrics.
4. Yarn Twist and Ply
- Twist: Yarn is twisted during its production, and the amount of twist impacts its texture, strength, and elasticity. The twist direction can either be S-twist (clockwise) or Z-twist (counterclockwise).
- Ply: Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to form a yarn. A two-ply yarn has two individual strands twisted together, a three-ply has three, and so on.
5. Textile Fabric Density:
- Fabric density refers to how tightly or loosely the yarns are woven or knitted in a fabric.
- Ends per inch (EPI): Number of yarns in one inch of fabric width (warp yarns).
- Picks per inch (PPI): Number of yarns in one inch of fabric length (weft yarns).
These measurements and systems are crucial in the textile industry, particularly for production, quality control, and machine settings. If you’re working with specific yarns or fabrics, it helps to understand how to convert these systems properly depending on your region or requirements.
Yarn Count Conversion Formula Table
| From / To | Cotton Count (Ne) | Metric Count (Nm) | Denier (D) | Tex (T) | Decitex (dtex) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton Count (Ne) | 1 Ne = 1 Ne | 1 Ne = 1.693 Nm | 1 Ne = 5.5 D | 1 Ne = 1.8 T | 1 Ne = 18 dtex |
| Metric Count (Nm) | 1 Nm = 0.591 Ne | 1 Nm = 1 Nm | 1 Nm = 3.25 D | 1 Nm = 0.55 T | 1 Nm = 5.5 dtex |
| Denier (D) | 1 D = 0.182 Ne | 1 D = 0.308 Nm | 1 D = 1 D | 1 D = 0.111 T | 1 D = 10 dtex |
| Tex (T) | 1 T = 0.556 Ne | 1 T = 1.818 Nm | 1 T = 9 D | 1 T = 1 T | 1 T = 10 dtex |
| Decitex (dtex) | 1 dtex = 0.056 Ne | 1 dtex = 0.182 Nm | 1 dtex = 0.1 D | 1 dtex = 0.1 T | 1 dtex = 1 d |